Craig Luebben

August 13th, 2009

Some people were just meant to do certain things.

Michael Phelps was meant to be a swimmer.

Mother Teresa was certainly meant to be a humanitarian.

My friend Craig Luebben was meant to be a climber.

After an immensely successful three decades worth of adventure all over the world, he died last week from a random ice slide on Mt. Torment in the Northern Cascades in Washington state.

The randomness of the event is painful; Craig was training to get his AMGA license for alpine guiding.

He could potentially be called the most knowledgeable person in the topic of climber safety.

As a contributing editor at Climbing magazine, he wrote articles about safety, adventure, as well as put his own neck on the line testing ice, snow, and rock gear to help all of us climbers know and understand how better to protect ourselves in wild places.

Beyond writing, he was an internationally known guide, photographer, off-width(wide crack) specialist, and inventor.  With a degree in engineering behind him, he invented the “big bro”(left) device for protecting the wide cracks he so loved to climb.

I had the absolute pleasure to co-author an instructional book with Craig, as well as illustrate four other books he penned, all based on his expertise of climbing how-to and safety.  We had plans for more in the near future.

Click the titles below to learn more and purchase.  Craig was always adamant that his royalties go to his family should he pass on.

Of course, throughout all of this work, Craig and I became friends, enjoyed climbing adventures together, talking about raising children, and dreaming of the next big adventure.

I talked to Craig two weeks ago, and he was looking so forward to his daughter Giulia(6) growing up and sharing the ski slopes, and mountains with her more and more.

Craig and Giulia soaring
Craig and Giulia soaring

Rest in Peace, Craig.  Thanks for all the encouragment, empowerment, and inspiration

You once saw a picture of me climbing an off-width with only one cam above me.  You ran downstairs and brought back up a “big-bro” to give me.  I never forgot that, and always considered you a big-bro as well.

On a random side note…

I had recently finished the map below of Mt Torment & Forbiddenforbidden-map-jeremy

I had planned to climb the exact same route

Craig was on two weeks from now.

It has certainly left a sour taste in my mouth.

The Northwest has recently seen temps in the triple digits for multiple days, certainly influencing the instability in the high peaks, that most likely led to Craigs demise.

5 Responses to “Craig Luebben”

  1. Ranski says:

    Jer-

    Sorry to hear about the loss of your friend.

    Ranski

  2. Marvin says:

    …..peace…….

  3. Rob O says:

    Aw no. Sorry Jer.

    I remember sleeping on Craig’s couch that one time.

    Peace bro,

    -Rob O

  4. jer says:

    thanks guys.

  5. Scott says:

    I took a clinic with Craig at Vedauwoo last fall. What a climber, what a man. Despite his abilities, he had no ego. He just enjoyed climbing and teaching. During the clinic and at the camp, we talked of our families. He had a young daughter, I have three. I am so sadden for his wife and daughter. Craig is my climbing hero. I didn’t know him long, but I will miss him.

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Paradise Rocks.

August 2nd, 2009

I celebrated 8 years of marriage last week with my beautiful wife. We decided to go bouldering(climbing small rocks) in paradise- the island of Virgin Gorda in the british virgin isles.

We also took a short boat ride to the neighboring uninhabited island, Fallen Jerusalem.
Hope you enjoy a look into our journey to paradise. For you non-climbers, the pads we carry on our backs are to lay on the ground and protect our falls.

Virgin Gorda + Fallen Jerusalem Island from Jeremy Collins on Vimeo.

Music by Matisyahu

3 Responses to “Paradise Rocks.”

  1. Jennifer says:

    What an awesome way to celebrate! That looks like a ton of fun! Hope you guys had a great trip!

  2. Marvin says:

    life is meant for this kind of thingy

  3. justaguy says:

    Yep, the BVI’s are the last bastion of perfect paradise. I’ve done 3 week plus sailing trips there, bouldering at the Baths…and I’d say that *besides* the awesome bouldering, the snorkeling is unbelievable. Underwater visibility on virgin reefs with tropical fish for over 200 feet in as little as 6 feet of depth.
    You picked a fantastic place for an anniversary. ;-)

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Read To Release…

July 18th, 2009

3 Responses to “Read To Release…”

  1. A. Karno says:

    love it. Making time to do the same.
    I have the coffee co. Java Juice and
    met you at the OR booth where you were
    signing your work and you gave me a card.

    I am a huge fan. Now don’t forget to check
    out Egon Scheile the artist. His color and
    eroticism will speak to you.
    Where can I send you a photo jpeg of you
    at the booth?
    all the best
    a

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Threadless and SLC

July 15th, 2009

So, I entered a Threadless submission.

Threadless is an online t-shirt design on-going competition.

It is a genius business plan, and there is some inspired work there. Anyways, the prize for this recent competition is a VW “pre-loved” car!   So what the hey!?  I’ll give it a shot.

Feel free to score me a “5″ and leave a comment!  :-)

historyhomelo

Also, here’s a press release for some shirt designs I did for Outdoor Research, and below, a detail section of the map I designed for them. The peaks are Torment & Forbidden in the North Cascades of Washington. My hope is to go climb them sometime late summer.

forbiddendetail

If you are at Outdoor Retailer Trade Show, please stop by and say hi.

3 Responses to “Threadless and SLC”

  1. Mogra Sharma says:

    the design is really cool! its amazing the kinda talent threadless and design by humans actually attract!
    I also came across another site which does similar work called Inkfruit, I wonder whether u’ve seen that one.

  2. Kristyn says:

    so i scored yours as a 5, and then a bunch of others that were not so cool lower. i hope you win the bug and i hope to get a t-shirt

  3. lorib says:

    Our computer has been down so I missed the chance to score the design, but I love it and hope they print it.

    Have you heard about 200nipples.com? A very fun business concept. I would love to see one of your designs over there.

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A Kingdom Divided

July 1st, 2009

A Kingdom Divided: The biblical story of Kind David, King Solomon, and their heirs reign over the Kingdom of Israel.

This piece aired last week at the youth specialties conference in LA, and later this summer in DC.
It’s over five minutes long and requires some reading, so don’t say you weren’t warned, those with short attention spans.

All imagery was hand drawn, then many versions were crafted via photocopies, collage, and with different mediums. The shooting was all done over three 14 hour days, with over 4000 images brought into the computer for post production.

The Kingdom Divided from Stewart H Redwine on Vimeo.

Producer, Writer- Stewart Redwine, Heart Initiative
All Drawn Imagery- Jeremy Collins
Support/Transitional Imagery- Rebekah Nastav, Kristen Howdeshell, Kevin Howdeshell
Music Score- Jason Livesay, Livesay Music
Animation- ThreeHouse (Jeremy, Kristen, & Kevin)
Thanks to: Andy Michael, and Isaiah Powers for technical assistance, Greg Kolsto for Koffee.

3 Responses to “A Kingdom Divided”

  1. Anonymous says:

    totally inspired by this push and result, psyched for future pieces related to the mtns!

    Was it super hard to stabilize the line up or did you go for the jitter effect?

    ~renan

  2. jer says:

    Nando- hey man thanks for the good words. No the jitter was intentional and done post production. All pages were mounted with a clampdown frame for shoot and manipulating.

    See ya next week… gotta carve some time for a ginormous canvas that invaded the studio. heh.

  3. Scott says:

    Super cool man….really moving imagery. Its great to see you putting this rich story together with your talent. Made me think.

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Rip Shoot, Rip Shoot

June 19th, 2009

stopgo

Spent the last two weeks hiding in a hole (yes literally) doing a Stop motion project in which I had an above head mounted camera (G10 run by Dragon) as I ripped, painted, and explored through roughly 4000 sheets of random and not so random paper to tell an animated story.  Soon I’ll have the video up online, but thought some might enjoy seeing the process. And now… hello weekend!

4 Responses to “Rip Shoot, Rip Shoot”

  1. Anonymous says:

    where’s the video, big-un?

  2. jer says:

    Rendering now, anonym-un.

  3. Anonymous says:

    really amazing work, thanks for the continued inspiration!

  4. Dirk says:

    Your post jer collins » Blog Archive » Rip Shoot, Rip Shoot was very interesting when I found it over google on Thursday by my search for rip. I have your blog now in my bookmarks and I visit your blog again, soon. Take care.

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smoking gun…

June 17th, 2009

smoking-gun

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Jonny Copp

June 8th, 2009

Thank you so much for all the emails and calls, those who knew of my friend Jonny who died in an avalanche last week in China.

His partner whom I knew primarily via spirited phone calls and emails, Micah Dash, and the upcoming filmmaker Wade Johnson were also lost. Please join me in supporting the recovery and return of these fallen athletes and friends.

Jonny was an american, a professional alpine climber, a writer, filmmaker, son, proud brother and the instigator of the ever evolving and growing Adventure Film Festival, having it’s roots in Boulder, Colorado, but much like Jonny, traveling worldwide.  I wrote him a letter this weekend, which may give a view into the character of this talented and motivated spirit.

His vision and eye for new routes in the big mountains were much like an artists, and he had no shortage of masterpieces in the last 20 years.

He inspired many with his films, outrageous laughter, smile, and aggressive pursuit of the mountains.  The big walls of the world seemed to open their doors freely to him- everywhere on this globe he went he found his way.

I was lucky to be on the Jonny train for a few fantastic adventures.  We collaborated on a First Ascent in the black Canyon, a few routes in RMNP,  a few mixed art pieces, including a live painting performance, and an animated short film based on a character his Mother came up with.  We had a long list of ideas for projects on the rock and off, including putting up a route together using our “JC” names. His clever 911 inspired idea was “I’m Collins the Copps!”

Jonny also wrote an essay that appeared in my book INTUIT10N which I have pasted here for your enjoyment. Thanks for the ride, Jonny.

gallery_i_img4

Float takes the idea of “marching to the beat of your own drum” to a new level. The somber colors act as a thin veil to a piece of art that bursts with light, enthusiasm and purpose. Most of Jeremy’s art is like this, like an egg that you have to crack to get to the sustenance. And beyond their delivery, the pieces speak to me like an old buddy would while around a campfire, stoking the flames and staring up at giant shadows bouncing off of nearby cliffs.

“What are all those folks doing fussing about down in the grey area? Chasing the same old stuff.” Float seems to say.

The boat is tilted; there is something askew, not sustainable. There are certainly more (fish) to be had over on the crowded side of the boat. But the spirit of challenge and individuality seems to be missing. To me there is something lost in the masses, no elbowroom and no horizon.

It can be lonely over on the high side of the boat. And you might starve.” The Devil’s advocate yells across the fire over his half empty bottle.

At that my mind wanders to the cold times, times of doubt, near death, scraping by…
The shadows dance off the wall even though we are all still, in thought. One of the dancers bounces into a shape that reminds me of release, of survival, of sun shining into a cold spot you weren’t sure you’d make it out of, of grabbing a hold just as you thought you might fall. It reminds me of the rewards of chasing your own dreams regardless of perceived worth, risk or futility.

Yes, that’s it. It  reminds me of the rewards of chasing your own dreams.

Jonny Copp


2 Responses to “Jonny Copp”

  1. torch says:

    i love the red pen series; particularly the one with the swiss cheese person giving a part of himself to another. i won’t pretend to know jonny, but i think i’ve learned a bit about him by seeing the thoughts of his closest friends. reading jonny’s words brought an image of that doodle back into my mind as it seems a fitting description of him. the best thing about a guy who gives himself away like that is even after he’s gone, you’re still able to keep a piece of him; or better yet, pass it to someone else.

  2. Phyllis Copp & John Copp says:

    Dearest Jeremy,
    You are amazing!!! This piece is another
    diamond found…. of your incedable abilty to
    express yourself,both in art & words & feelings. The painting is exquisite and so meaningful. We had never seen this beautiful
    piece of work (essay) that Jonathan has shared with you. Many many thanks for sharing it with us…and the rest of the world. We sooo much
    look forward to the pleasure getting to know
    you better Jeremy through the months & years
    ahead.
    Much love,
    Phyllis and John Copp

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Amazon & Reclined

May 27th, 2009

Got an email today that my book INTUIT10N was on Amazon. If you have a copy, please consider posting a review(only if it’s positive, of course-ha!)

Below: “Reclined”

One Response to “Amazon & Reclined”

  1. Andy C says:

    Nice jer! …..ok I wrote only that first part and it told me that my comment was too short so I added this part. Cheers.

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Get Behind Me, Monday

May 19th, 2009

cloudtether

6 Responses to “Get Behind Me, Monday”

  1. Ranski says:

    That about sums it up for me as well this week…glad to see you still using your new “red” tool.

  2. Kristyn says:

    Nice. You should consider cutting that rope so the Monday doesn’t follow you through the week.

  3. jer says:

    nice! That’s what I’m talkin’ bout… or just lose the umbrella and deal with getting wet.

  4. Ranski says:

    Jer- your comment got me thinking. Have you ever painted in a light rain with the canvas tilted slightly up…just a thought

  5. jer says:

    yes, but not on purpose…

  6. Kevin Howdeshell says:

    nice buddy,

    looking forward to seeing what you’ve done when we get back. Enjoy the peace and quiet!

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